The automatic watch: a story in motion.

Automatic watches are objects that intrigue, fascinate and excite. Each one is a marvel of engineering that combines a series of complex elements to create an instrument for measuring time.

When it comes to discussing watchmaking with someone, especially their watchmaker, a manufacturer or other enthusiasts, it often happens that we come up against misunderstandings or misunderstandings as soon as we get into the details of what makes up an automatic watch.

At the Atelier Caradant in particular, it often happens that the notion of watch dial is understood as the entire case.

In this article, we will explore the essential components that make an automatic watch work, and in particular the watches from Atelier Caradant, and we will focus on the vocabulary, often a source of misunderstanding or error during a watchmaking discussion.

1. The movement: the heart of the watch

The movement of an automatic watch is its internal engine, which allows the measurement of time by a regular kinematics of mechanical parts. At the Atelier we use a Japanese movement: the 9015.

The barrel: a mechanical battery

It is a cylinder or drum that houses a flat spring, known as a barrel spring. The barrel spring is the element that stores the energy needed to power the watch movement.

The operation of the barrel is quite simple. When the mainspring is tensioned, it stores potential energy. This energy is then released in a regulated manner, providing the movement needed to run the watch. The barrel is designed to maintain a constant tension on the mainspring to ensure that energy is evenly distributed to the movement, thus ensuring accurate time keeping.

The stored energy allows the watch to have an autonomy called "Power reserve".

The escapement: regulating time

The escapement is a crucial component of the movement that regulates the speed at which the balance spring unwinds. This creates a smooth movement of the balance wheel, allowing time to be measured accurately.

The term escapement is linked to the idea that this organ of the movement serves to release (let escape) the energy contained in the barrel.

The balance wheel and the hairspring: the heart of precision

The balance wheel is the oscillating component essential to the balance and regularity of the watch. It oscillates from one side to the other at a regular frequency, specific to each movement.

The spiral spring controls the speed of this oscillation by concentrating/extending the coils. It is in fact a flat spring which, unlike the spring of the common imagination, is not compressed in its length, but in its diameter.

The combination of these two elements keeps the watch running with the precision sought by the manufacturer.

In our case, the oscillation occurs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, or 4Hz.

The gear train: Transmission of movement.

The gear train is a series of toothed wheels that transfer energy regulated by the balance spring to the second, minute and hour hand.

The oscillating weight: transmitting its energy to the watch.

The oscillating weight, also known as the rotor, is the differentiating component of automatic watch movements. Its main role is to wind the barrel spring to continuously power (as long as the watch is worn) the watch movement.

The oscillating weight is mounted on a central pivot and can rotate freely. When the wearer of the watch moves his wrist, the oscillating weight also moves and begins to rotate around its central pivot. Through a gear train (independent of the one that drives the hands), this movement causes the rotation of the free axis of the barrel and the tensioning of its spring.

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2. The dial: The time display

The dial of a watch is the visible internal surface of the watch on which the hours, minutes, and often seconds are displayed. It is the part of the watch that you look at to tell the time. The dial is one of the most visible components of a watch, playing a vital role both functionally and aesthetically.

The dial usually consists of a thin plate, often made of metal or enamel, on which hour markers, numerals, or indexes are printed, engraved, or painted. Hour and minute hands rotate above the dial to indicate the current time. The dial may also include other elements, such as the date, brand name, logo, or special features, such as a moon phase indicator or chronograph complication.

Dial design varies greatly from watch to watch, allowing watchmakers to express their creativity and give each watch a unique identity. The dial is therefore much more than just a functional element, it is a canvas on which the watchmaker can leave his artistic mark.

At the Workshop, dials and projects come together to tell a unique story: yours.

3. The hands: the time indicators

The hands on a watch are the moving parts that point to the markers on the dial to indicate the time. They are essential for telling the time on an analog watch, whether mechanical or quartz. There are typically three main hands on an analog watch: the hour hand, the minute hand, and the second hand.

1. Hour hand: This is the shortest of the three hands and indicates the time by pointing to the numbers or hour markers on the dial. One complete rotation of the hour hand represents 12 hours.

2. Minute hand: This is the longest hand and indicates the minutes by pointing to the minute markers on the dial. One full rotation of the minute hand represents 60 minutes.

3. Second Hand: This hand is the thinnest and longest of the three. It completes one rotation in 60 seconds and indicates the seconds by pointing to the second markers on the dial.

4. The case: time protection capsule

A watch case is the external structure that houses and protects all of the watch's internal components, including the movement, dial, and hands. It is one of the most visible elements of the watch and plays a vital role in both functionality and style.

It consists of the following elements:

The build

The caseband of a watch is the main base of the case that surrounds the dial and movement of the watch and onto which the bezel, glass, back, pushers and crown are then attached.

The Bezel

The bezel of a watch is the outer part at the front of the case that carries the watch glass and is fixed to the caseband. It can be fixed or movable and have or not one or more functions depending on the type of watch.

Glass (or ice)

This is the transparent material that is cast onto the bezel and protects the inside of the watch while providing visibility of the dial. It is an essential component of the watch, and can be made from different materials depending on the watch and its features.

Our watches at Atelier Caradant use only sapphire crystals which offer transparency, strength and durability well above average.

The crown

The crown of a watch is a small part located on the side of the watch case, usually at the 3 o'clock position on the dial. The crown serves several essential functions in a mechanical or automatic watch, including manually winding the movement ("charging" the barrel), changing the time, and changing the date.

It is also an essential and critical organ for sealing because it is the only one that is mobile!

The Bottom of the Box

The case back of a watch is the rear part of the case that is opposite the bezel. It is therefore the part of the watch that is in contact with the skin of the wrist when the watch is worn. The case back is usually a solid surface that can be fixed or removable, depending on the type of watch and its design.

It is generally screwed (either by small screws or with a peripheral screw thread on the bottom itself but can also be clipped if the sealing constraint is low.

On our automatic watches, all the case backs have a sapphire crystal allowing you to admire the movement and its custom decoration.

In summary

As in all fields, watchmaking has its own vocabulary, sometimes very technical. But it is important to know the basics to better understand the technical sheet of a watch, the explanations of its watchmaker and to be relevant in your exchanges with other enthusiasts.

As for the Atelier Caradant, this will allow us to better understand each other for all your custom-made automatic watch projects in order to best and unequivocally define what corresponds to your expectations, the watch that will carry your story!